Celine Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection marked a significant moment in the house's evolution under Hedi Slimane. While the brand's history is steeped in the quiet luxury and understated elegance favored by the discreet French bourgeoisie – a time when Celine was a destination for exquisitely crafted silk scarves, tailored suits, and impeccably made leather goods – Slimane's vision injected a youthful, rock-and-roll energy into the established aesthetic. This collection, therefore, served as a fascinating bridge between the past and the future of Celine, a testament to both heritage and reinvention.
The runway presentation itself was a spectacle, a carefully curated tableau that encapsulated Slimane's signature style. The models, a diverse cast embodying a range of ages and body types, walked with a confident swagger, their movements mirroring the collection's edgy yet refined spirit. The beauty look was equally impactful, featuring slicked-back hair, sharp eyeliner, and a natural, almost androgynous makeup palette that accentuated the models' individual features. This understated beauty, devoid of excessive embellishment, allowed the clothing to take center stage, highlighting the meticulous tailoring and the bold silhouettes that defined the collection.
The collection itself was a masterclass in contrasts. While drawing inspiration from the house's rich archives, Slimane infused the designs with a contemporary edge, creating pieces that were both timeless and undeniably modern. The color palette was predominantly muted, featuring neutrals such as black, white, beige, and grey, punctuated by pops of vibrant color strategically placed to add visual interest. This restraint in color allowed the texture and cut of the garments to shine, emphasizing the luxurious fabrics and impeccable construction that are synonymous with Celine.
A significant portion of the collection focused on sharply tailored suits, a nod to the brand's heritage. However, Slimane modernized these classic pieces by employing slimmer silhouettes, incorporating unexpected details like asymmetrical closures and exaggerated shoulders, and pairing them with unexpected accessories. The result was a collection of suits that felt both powerful and effortlessly cool, perfect for the modern woman who demands both sophistication and individuality.
Beyond the tailored pieces, the collection showcased a variety of other garments, each reflecting Slimane's unique vision. Flowing silk dresses, reminiscent of the brand's early days, were reimagined with modern twists, featuring daring necklines, daring slits, and unexpected layering. Leather jackets, a staple in Slimane's design vocabulary, appeared in various iterations, from classic biker jackets to more structured, oversized styles. Knitwear, often overlooked in high-fashion collections, was given its due, with intricately designed pieces that added a touch of softness and warmth to the overall aesthetic.
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